As I found over the next two days of driving the Shimanami Kaido as a pathway to exploring a number of the sites via the islands" backroads, the Geiyo Islands are a microcosm of an extraordinary age. In addition to ruins of Murakami forts – one located on top of a mountain, a lookout tower from which the Murakami surveyed the sea lanes – I visited the largest collection of historical samurai armoury in Japan at

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